Namibia

Windhoek city is best approached as a one- or two-day stop to acclimate and prepare for the journey ahead. The city itself is a curious blend of worlds: German colonial buildings stand quietly beside sleek malls, while roadside stalls line the sidewalks, where women in traditional Himba dress or Herero women in Victorian patchwork skirts sell handicrafts of carved wood, beads, and textiles.

 Upon arrival, pick up an MTC SIM card at Hosea Kutako International Airport — the lines in town aren’t worth the wait, and MTC is the only reliable network once out on the open road.

 A recommended stay is The Windhoek Luxury Suites, which is peaceful, secure, and just stylish enough. If possible, opt for the loft room and enjoy vaulted ceilings, plush bedding, and a private balcony. Right across the street is Stellenbosch Bistro, ideal for a complimentary breakfast in its leafy courtyard or a pre-dinner wine tasting from an impressive South African list. Be sure to book ahead for dinner.

 Mornings unfold easily at Slowtown Coffee, a specialty café roasting beans from across Africa, with a sunny terrace perfect for people-watching. In the evening, make your way to Joe’s Beer House, a Windhoek institution serving game meats, seafood, and cold German brews in a boisterous, outdoor beer-hall atmosphere.

For the journey ahead, the best solution is a 4x4 truck — it offers total freedom and a few thrills along the way. Namibia’s vastness is best experienced at your own pace, but expect long drives (often between 6–8 hours). If planning to self-drive, reserve a vehicle before arriving. A reliable option is Advanced Car Hire, which offers several truck models depending on the route and level of adventure.

 Before setting off, withdraw enough cash, as ATMs become scarce beyond the cities. Stock the car with local biltong, Jungle Energy Bars, and plenty of water. After one last tire pressure check, pull away from Windhoek — the desert is calling.

An ideal road trip begins with a passage to the Sesriem region. As you drive across the Tropic of Capricorn into the heart of the Namib Desert, the landscape changes rapidly — paved roads give way to gravel, then sand.

 Desert Hills Lodge is a perfect oasis. Each thatched-roof chalet is tucked into a boulder-strewn ridge with a private terrace that looks out onto nothing — a rare and healing kind of nothing. Come sundown, the vermillion skies ignite the earth in a light so surreal it makes you wonder if you are dreaming. After a relaxed dinner, wander the stone path back to the chalet — the stars above feel impossibly close. As you drift into sound sleep, you might hear a lone jackal crying out in the distance — a goodnight from the desert on your first night in.

 Desert adventures begin before dawn — but that’s okay, because the morning light is pure magic. Shades of purple and pink saturate the skies as wildlife begins to stir. Springboks perform their playful dance, while oryx stride by in solitude, their black-and-white coats striking against the pastel horizon.

 Enter Sossusvlei National Park just before sunrise — the best time to hike Dune 45 and/or Big Daddy. After crossing a silent valley, passing three lazy oryx resting beneath a single camel thorn tree, take on the nearly vertical dune as your feet sink into soft sand. At the top: a view that swallows you whole. The Namib Desert — believed to be approximately 55 million years old — stretches in every direction. It doesn’t feel real.

 The descent from the top feels like flying. Breathless and dusty, your shoes heavy with sand, you’ll find yourself walking across Deadvlei — another world entirely. A barren forest of petrified trees, nearly 1,000 years old, their bark blackened from the sun and contrasting against the blinding white cracked clay pan, all enclosed by towering red dunes. A photographer’s paradise — and something haunting too.

 From Sesriem, a few adventures branch off. Sesriem Canyon winds deep into rock formations, offering shade and hidden caves. If there’s been rain, it’s a surprising place to dip into cool waters. NamibRand Nature Reserve offers over 200,000 hectares of private wilderness, free to enter and accessible for self-drive safari moments. Watch for herds of zebra, cheeky baboons, or the odd giraffe.

And then there’s Solitaire — part fuel stop, part desert relic, part cinematic fever dream. Rusted-out Chevys sit deserted beside cactus and dust, tumbleweeds rolling on by. The main draw: a bakery serving a remarkably good apple pie. Sweet, dense, and topped with fresh cream — it somehow feels just right eaten on a sun-drenched picnic bench in the middle of nowhere.

The road continues south to explore ghost towns and the Atlantic shores. The desolate B-road to Lüderitz cuts through Aus, where wild horses graze in the dry heat — a mirage that turns out to be very real. It’s a welcome stop from the weary road and perfect for a photo op.

 Arrive in the peculiar town of Lüderitz just before sundown. The streets are empty and strangely colorful, lined with crumbling German Art Deco facades.

 At night, head for dinner at the liveliest place in town — The Portuguese Fisherman Restaurant. If the owner is there, strike up a conversation — he’s likely to share stories of the town’s past and offer a nightcap of Beirão, a Portuguese herbal liquor served with ice and a lemon twist. An ode to his roots and a salut to new friends.

Early the next morning, while the moon is still out, set out for Kolmanskop — a once-glittering diamond town, now deserted and swallowed by sand. It’s about 30 minutes from Lüderitz. If you want to enter at sunrise (highly recommended), reach out to the number listed on the Kolmanskop website for a photography permit. Otherwise, wait for opening hours and pay the standard entry fee.

 In the eerie morning light, the place can be almost entirely yours. Step carefully through fractured doorways and tiptoe through sand-filled halls. Each crumbling room holds a strange hush, as if the walls still remember the laughter, greed, and suddenness with which it all slipped away.

 Kolmanskop feels like a dream half-remembered: clawfoot tubs marooned in dunes, flowered wallpaper peeling from walls, staircases leading nowhere — a mysterious town frozen in time.

 A few more destinations worth noting if based near Lüderitz: Quiver Tree Forest, Giant’s Playground, and Fish River Canyon — all worthy of detours, especially if heading farther south.

At last, venture into the wild “Great White Place” — Etosha National Park, one of the largest national parks in all of Africa. Its stark white salt pan is so vast it’s said to be visible from space. This extraordinary sanctuary is home to four of the Big Five, and with a bit of luck — and the right season — you may spot lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, giraffe, and more.

Plan to spend at least a week, beginning at Onguma Forest Camp, set on its own private reserve where giraffes, elephants, and a pride of lions roam freely. The camp offers a range of guided safaris, both within the reserve and into the park. One of their more daring suggestions: a sundowner drive in the midst of the reserve. Just imagine sipping a cool drink at blue hour, knowing lions may be starting their hunt nearby.

The secluded huts at Onguma Forest Camp carry an old-world charm, rich in Hemingway-esque nostalgia: dark woods, canvas chairs, checkered tile, and a cloud-like bed beneath a gauzy mosquito net. It’s the kind of place that transports you. Each evening, you can channel your inner Hemingway and Pauline — minus the rifles — just two dreamers watching the African skies move briskly overhead, a crystal glass of sherry in hand.

Early mornings bring exhilarating drives; afternoons are best spent slowly by the pool, next to a swarming watering hole where kudu, eland, and zebra appear like clockwork.

 Returning from safari one early evening, you may catch a flicker of movement through the trees — and suddenly find yourself watching nearly forty elephants, small ones with great floppy ears and massive ones with deep-set wrinkles. They drink, splash, and coat themselves in mud. Watch in awe as they move around each other in complete harmony, unbothered by your presence. Then, as if on cue, they wander off one by one into the bush, vanishing beneath a brooding African sky.

 This is a wild land that many fall hard for. So much so that, on a whim, you might extend your stay.

 The next morning, pack up the dust-covered suitcases and continue down the road to Mushara Outpost — a refined boutique lodge of wood-and-canvas tents, designed to feel both restorative and ready for adventure.

By now, you may be eager to test your newly trained safari eyes with a self-drive into Etosha. Entering without a guide is simple: a quick stop at the gate for papers and stamps, and you’re in. For good measure, top off the tank, check the tires, and set off — park map on the dash, camera ready, and patience in tow. The pace of safari may be slow, but always rewarding.

Back at Mushara, the staff lights a fire each evening. If lucky, you’ll hear stories of living among the wild. Their tales are surreal — and unforgettable.

Dinner is always a slow, candlelit affair — seasonal ingredients prepared with care, creative menus curated daily, in an atmosphere that makes it hard to imagine leaving.

On the return leg, head toward the Kalahari Desert. Its vibrant red sands stretch into Botswana and South Africa, though interestingly, the rainfall here disqualifies it from being a true desert.

Check into Bagatelle Game Ranch, nestled in the southern Kalahari — a striking place surrounded by natural beauty. If available, choose one of the Dune Chalets, where the wildlife views from your balcony are nothing short of cinematic.

The ranch offers a mix of unusual excursions: horseback rides across the dunes, cheetah feedings alongside the owner (who works with the Cheetah Conservation Fund), and sundowner drives through their private reserve. Or, simply lounge by the pool with a book and let curious kudu wander by. It’s a great stop for families or adventurous spirits.

To wrap up the journey, retreat to a remote Airbnb called Dorsland Cottage, located in the quiet town of Aranos in southeast Namibia. Built on a working farm — home to sheep, goats, cattle, and Arabian horses — this hidden gem sits among red dunes and camel thorn trees. Over a few relaxing days, guests are shown the lay of the land and the tremendous effort it takes to sustain life in such a dramatic environment. The hosts spoil guests with homemade bread and an unforgettable meal. It’s the kind of place meant for truly stepping off the grid.

Namibia is a destination that feels otherworldly and stays with you long after you’ve left. Its silence is immense, its space liberating. Come prepared for dust, for beauty, and for a kind of stillness rarely found elsewhere.

This beautiful country doesn’t ask for much — only that you look closely, drive slowly, and stay a little longer than planned.