Byron Bay

Byron – Australia’s most easterly point – bustles with independent cafés, lively bars and thrift shops. The area is also rooted in mysticism and meditation. Travellers have been visiting for many years to heal their minds and their bodies, and to become part of – however fleetingly – a counter-culture that rebels against the 9-5 lifestyle, favouring art, creativity and free-thinking.

During a week-long spell in Byron Shire, it’s best to split time between the coast and the hinterland. By the coast you’ll find a barefoot, laidback approach to life, centred around surfing, coffee and açai. Up in the hills you’ll find breathtaking nature, vintage wares and waterfalls.

 As a sense of connection becomes increasingly integral to travel this year, this small, sun-kissed seaside shire affords the ideal base for a wellness-leaning adventure.

Fly into Ballina airport, where your first port of call should be picking up a hire car, to better equip you for exploring your new surroundings. From here, head into the hills, and towards the gorgeous Blackbird Byron on the side of Mount Koonyum. With a design inspired by the land, this collection of four pavilions boasts incredible views of your hinterland surroundings. Each cabin faces east, built specifically to frame the view and the sunrise over the Cape Byron coastline.

There’s a main barn too, with a communal dining area, kitchen, magnesium mineral pool and infra-red sauna; and a small team that are on hand for your stay – with just a handful of rooms the service is tailored and intimate.

Drop your bags and throw on your bikini: your first taste of Byron life is a drive down to off-track Brunswick Heads. Catch the late afternoon sun on the golden Torakina beach – enjoy the beautiful waters or kayak in the nature reserve. Watch the day draw to a close with a golden sunset. 

Drive back to base for dinner. It’s served communal-style in the main barn each night, cooked by the resident chef with the cuisine changing depending on the day. But no matter the menu, you’ll always be served fresh, locally-grown ingredients. After dessert, it’s time for an early night – you’re up for sunrise in the morning.

An early alarm is worth it to see the sun soar over Cape Byron – make a coffee in your cabin and watch from your cabin’s terrace or head up to the main barn and sit by the pool.

Spend your afternoon mooching around the tiny towns of the hinterland. Between the hills you’ll find some gorgeous villages – first, stop at Mullumbimby, which is known for the alternative lifestyle adopted by its residents. The town is great for thrifting, too: especially homewares, antiques and locally made art. Bangalow is particularly charming, with low-rise eateries and boutiques framed by cactus plants and wooden porches. Grab a salad and smoothie from Pantry 29 or a decadent brunch from WOODS.

The roads to Blackbird are pretty small and sinuous, so you’re best to avoid driving at night. Return to Blackbird Byron for the last of the afternoon sun instead – pull up a lounger by the pool – then indulge in a leisurely evening starting with a sundowner, followed by a pamper in your cabin, before another delicious dinner at the main barn.

It’s time to head for the golden sands of Byron Bay. Drop your bags at Eighties motel-inspired The Sunseeker, your new coastal home. You’re just outside the main thrum of town, with easy access to some of the Bay’s best beaches and eateries. Start at Main Beach, which is within reach of plenty of lunch options: there are açai bowls on pretty much every corner but we particularly loved Combi, Oakberry and Rebar.

The hotel has surf boards on hand to rent for free, so spend the early afternoon at The Pass or Clarkes Beach (they neighbour each other) catching some waves. Head back to the Sunseeker as the afternoon draws to a close – there’s a Tiki bar just steps from the pool, where you can order a pre-dinner cocktail or beers.

If you’re staying in one of the bungalows, you’ll be fully equipped with a kitchen, lounge, patio and barbeque deck. Australia is known for its great quality produce, so stock up at the organic shop Bay Grocer (it’s the kind of shop that you may struggle to leave) and cook up a storm. You can eat on your bungalow decking, or take your dinner to one of the many communal tables and firepits around the grounds.

Start your day with sunrise at Wategos beach – here you’ll find locals surfing, meditating, or sun-saluting. Head back to the Sunseeker for your coffee fix – there’s a vintage-style coffee cart out front serving flat whites and flaky pastries. Make time for some R&R at the hotel: alternate between the terracotta poolside dotted with palms and squishy loungers and the library, which is decorated with Seventies-style leather sofas, burnt orange accents and artworks by Northern Rivers creatives. It’s just the place to curl up with one of their curated collection of coffee table books.

For lunch, try Top Shop’s picnic lawn. Order perfectly roasted coffee, wholesome brunch dishes or stacked burgers, then walk to Tallow Beach – a quiet stretch of powder-white sand. Make sure to stop by Miss Margarita between 5–6pm for its happy hour – it’s the best spot in Byron for a punchy cocktail. For dinner, try Asian-fusion Bang Bang, which is well loved for its delightful small plates, fiery curries and fragrant noodles.

Byron has just the right mix of wholesome and hedonism: there’s enough to keep you busy, but you needn’t move at pace. Just remember to pack your book, bikini and walking boots and let Byron’s incredible backdrops do the rest.