Argentina
Few cities in the world get under your skin like Buenos Aires; fiery and chaotic, magical and intense, it has a tangible, almost corporeal vibe seeping into your senses as you walk through Parisian-style avenues and old-world architecture, from the lively streets of Palermo to the effortlessly hip port facing the Río de la Plata—a river whose very name evokes tales of explorers and adventurers. A metropolis of contrasts and lived-in charm, it's a city to be savored slowly and passionately—like a tango.
Curation & Photos: Filippo Formenti
Editor: Ottavia Mapelli
Our exploration begins in Recoleta & Retiro—more than neighborhoods, Buenos Aires' districts are cities within the city, each with its own personality and unique character. These areas speak of belle époque elegance and colonial legacy: start at Museo Isaac Fernández Blanco, a neo-colonial mansion home to an impressive collection of treasures and a lush tropical garden escape in the heart of the city. Grab a coffee and medialuna in the wood-paneled charm of Confitería Norte before slipping once again into tranquility at the Recoleta Cemetery, where marble mausoleums and majestic statues honor illustrious porteños, including the beloved Evita. Just outside, discover a touch of gaucho elegance at Arandu Talabartería, a family-run shop for high-quality leather goods since 1987, or opt for the refined men’s shoes at Guido, rooted in classic Buenos Aires style.
For more exploration, visit the Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, a sleek steel-and-glass building in northern Puerto Madero that houses a private collection spanning Turner to Warhol, Dalí to Klimt. Or head south to admire the eccentric Palacio Barolo—commissioned by an Italian entrepreneur as an homage to Dante Alighieri—and climb its lighthouse for unmatched city views. In the evening, experience Buenos Aires' nightlife with a drink in the Gatsby-esque, golden ambiance of Presidente Bar or the sleek, New York-inspired setting of Pony Line at the Four Seasons. For your first taste of the city's sensational dining scene, try El Cuartito for its classic thick-crust pizza and football nostalgia, or bask in the hip vibe and contemporary cuisine of Bis Bistro, the relaxed sibling to fine-dining icon Aramburu.
Day two is dedicated to Palermo—an enclave of Italian heritage that has rightfully earned its reputation as the city's trendiest hub. Brimming with street art, design boutiques, hip restaurants, parrillas, and the city's most talked-about nightlife, Palermo is divided into smaller zones, each with its own identity. Start at MALBA, where Latin American art legends like Botero and Frida Kahlo are celebrated in light-filled galleries. Then dive into the district’s many pleasures: browse the sprawling Mercado de las Pulgas for hidden treasures and indulge in some of the best food in town.
It’s all about Argentine soul and cosmopolitan flair—from Don Julio, the holy grail of parrillas, to the Asian-American fusion at Gran Dabbang; from the fiery, balanced Mexican flavors of Ya Cabrón to the moody seasonal plates at Anchoita; from the pink-walled, Spanish-accented El Preferido to the bold, Franco-Vietnamese cocktails at Conchinchina, or the classic vermouth and soda at La Fuerza. And when the midnight craving strikes, head to PIBA for loaded fries and smashburgers.
Leaving Buenos Aires isn’t easy, but the promise of something extraordinary helps: may Salta be it. A two-hour flight connects the capital to this sophisticated colonial gem known as "La Linda"—an aristocratic, relaxing mix of Spanish and Andean culture, famed for its wine production, fostered by the cool winds and arid grounds that cradle the vines and produce grandiose glasses. Use one of its luxury estancias as your base for further exploration of the Noroeste—we suggest two different road trip routes to delve into the surprising diversity of the region.
Prepare for a lush escape through one of Argentina’s last remaining native forests; covered in subtropical wilderness, these hills combine dry and wet ecosystems, creating rich biodiversity of flora and fauna—a surprising shift from the landscapes you’ve seen so far. Extending from Peru and Bolivia to the eastern side of the Argentine Andes, the Yungas are a natural paradise humming with life, best explored with a local guide who can lead you through a realm still ruled by nature. Stop for lunch in the leafy, peaceful village of San Lorenzo, where locals retreat for cooler weekends, before continuing to what might be the highlight of the trip: with its rainbow-colored mountains scattered with ancient Inca trails, Quebrada de Humahuaca has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2003.
Before heading back to Salta, there are a few unmissable stops—charming Purmamarca is a quintessential desert town of pre-Hispanic origin, brightly painted and nestled at the feet of the particularly spectacular Cerro de los Siete Colores. Tilcara’s bohemian vibes and archaeological wonders have long attracted artists, poets, musicians, and painters who’ve made it both home and muse. Our suggestion? Make these your base for the night and visit the astonishing Salinas Grandes: this blinding white desert of salt flats, located at 3,400 meters, creates a surreal high-altitude landscape in striking contrast with the golden mountains you’ve come to know. It’s a dreamlike, mesmerizing scenery, best reached via the hypnotic Cuesta de Lipán—a serpentine mountain road offering sweeping views over the desert.
For a more remote and adventurous route, leave Salta behind and drive through the towering cacti and desert landscape of Parque Nacional Los Cardones to whitewashed Cachi—a sleepy town straight out of a Western film, with cobbled streets and a timeless atmosphere. Immerse yourself in a liminal, alien landscape as you travel through Quebrada de las Flechas, a surreal canyon of jagged stone "arrows" piercing the sky, before reaching Cafayate, the heart of high-altitude wine country. As always, it’s all about balance: after the dusty road trip, this wine-growing paradise nestled in the desert offers perfect indulgence with sunbaked plazas, a charming small-town feel, and lush vines backed by staggering mountains. Cafayate deserves a stop to sample the creations of its acclaimed wineries and goat cheese producers—fruits of the land, served with care and elegance in its gourmet eateries.
After this wine-soaked pause, the wildest part of the Argentine Andes awaits. As you approach the Puna, the scenery transforms again into a volcanic altiplano dotted with salt flats, volcanoes, red deserts, and multicolored lagoons. You’ll need a local guide to safely explore this lunar, almost supernatural terrain—and a 4x4 is highly recommended. But the reward is unparalleled: an awe-inspiring adventure through one of South America’s most remote and spellbinding landscapes.
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